THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO AUTHENTIC CHANEL JEWELLERY STAMPS

Are you a vintage collector, a style connoisseur or simply Chanel’s number one fan? At Rewind Vintage Affairs, we understand that owning a piece of pre-owned Chanel is more than just a purchase - it's a cherished experience. It's an investment in heritage and impeccable style. Craftsmanship, too! But with the booming popularity of vintage luxury pieces, how can you be sure your prized Chanel (or soon-to-be) is the real deal? Well, the secret often lies in the stamp. Join us as we unlock the fascinating evolution of Chanel jewellery hallmarks, empowering you to identify authentic treasures and avoid counterfeits.

Why Authenticity Matters (And How We Ensure It)
At Rewind, our reputation is built on trust and authenticity. Every piece of Chanel jewellery we offer undergoes our in-house expert's authentication process. We examine not only the design and craftsmanship but also the crucial identifying marks and stamps. This guide will give you a taste of the expertise we bring to every handpicked gem.

Dating Your Chanel: A Stamp-by-Stamp Journey
Chanel's jewellery marks, much like the House of Chanel, have evolved significantly over the years, providing a fascinating timeline for authentication. Let's delve into the key periods:

1920s - 1930s

The very first pieces of costume jewellery, introduced by Coco Chanel in 1927, were designed to contrast her minimalistic clothing. She famously reversed the perception of costume jewellery, making it chic to layer ropes of faux pearls and cuffs of semiprecious stones. Coco collaborated with Duke Fulco di Verdura, her first head designer of jewellery, during this pioneering era. Chanel also launched its first fine jewellery line, "Bijoux de Diamants," in 1932, though it faced criticism and wouldn't have a second collection until 1993.

Throughout these early years, Chanel jewellery was not signed. This makes these pieces extremely difficult to authenticate, requiring considerable expertise to appraise them for their craftsmanship, design, and condition. Such pieces are exceedingly rare; if you encounter an unsigned piece, always approach it with scepticism unless authenticated by a highly reputable expert.

1940s
A word of caution: if you encounter a cursive “Chanel” mark from this decade, proceed carefully. These pieces were produced by an American company called “Chanel Novelty Co.”, not the iconic French fashion house we all know and love. It’s a common pitfall for new collectors, but that’s what we’re here for!

1954 - 1971
After World War II, Coco Chanel reopened her fashion house. During this period, she created many iconic Chanel pieces that have become synonymous with the house of Chanel, including slingback pumps. As well as this, Chanel worked with renowned French jeweller Robert Goossens. Goossens is known for his work with other couture houses like Rochas and Balenciaga, and shared Chanel’s vision of mixing faux materials with genuine ones to create interesting, sculptural and totally unique pieces.

Each piece was signed with “CHANEL”. To differentiate them, haute couture pieces from this period often featured three subtle stars centred underneath the "CHANEL" stamp - a mark of ultimate luxury and craftsmanship.

Following Chanel’s death in 1971, Goossens continued to head the jewellery department. Today, Goossens Paris, led by his son Patrick, still works with the house and was acquired by Chanel in 2005 as part of its Métiers d’Art group.

1970s
In the 1970s, Chanel significantly altered the authenticity stamp to mark exclusivity and guarantee quality. When shopping for pieces of this era, look for a distinctive round cartouche (decorative frame) with these defining features:

- The familiar "CHANEL" at the top.
- Copyright (©) to the left and registered trademark (®) to the right of the "CHANEL" name.
- The iconic interlocking CC logo prominently centered.
- "MADE IN FRANCE" at the bottom, indicating the country of production.

1980s
In 1981, Chanel jewellery was dated for the first time. The "MADE IN FRANCE" was replaced by the four-digit year of production (e.g. "1981") at the bottom centre of the stamp.
Shortly after, in 1983, Karl Lagerfeld was appointed as the house’s creative director. One year later, he enlisted Victoire de Castellane to be its head designer of costume jewellery. From 1984 until 1990, she modified the dating system to reflect the season:

- An oval plaque with "CHANEL" at the top, © and ® symbols.
- Season numbers (23-29) flanking the CC logo (e.g. "23" to the left, "24" to the right).
- "MADE IN FRANCE" at the bottom.

These pieces are highly collectible!

1990 - 1991
For a brief period, Victoire de Castellane reverted to the earlier stamp format, without specific date or season indicators, similar to the Wertheimer-era stamp.

1993 - Present

In 1993, with Chanel launching two seasonal ready-to-wear collections in addition to couture, Victoire de Castellane adjusted the stamp to reflect both the year and season. The plaques feature:

- A two-digit year (e.g., "97" for 1997) to the left of the CC logo. 
- A season letter to the right of the CC logo, providing precise dating… P: Printemps (Spring) A: Automne (Autumn) C: Cruise (Resort Collection, added later) V: Ligne Continu (Continuous Line/Permanent Collection) Example: "95 P" indicates a piece from Spring 1995.

That same year, Chanel officially launched its fine jewellery division with its second-ever collection. Under Lorenz Bäumer, Chanel finally established itself as a purveyor of high and fine jewellery. Chanel’s fine jewellery can be authenticated by a signature identical to that on the costume jewellery, as well as two other markings: each piece is also etched with the karat purity of the metal and a unique serial number. All of these identifiers are engraved on the underside of the piece of jewellery.

And if you’re still not sure - we’ll help you out. Rewind offers an authentication service.

Elevate Your Collection with Rewind Vintage Affairs

Understanding these intricate stamps is paramount to building an authentic and valuable Chanel jewellery collection. At Rewind Vintage Affairs, we simplify this process for you. Our curated selection of authenticated vintage Chanel jewellery is a testament to timeless elegance and enduring quality, allowing you to invest with confidence. 

Ready to find your next iconic piece? Explore our exquisite collection of authentic Chanel necklaces, Chanel earrings, Chanel bracelets, Chanel rings, and Chanel brooches, all meticulously authenticated and ready to become cherished additions to your wardrobe.

Shop authentic Chanel jewellery at Rewind Vintage Affairs today!